Scaredy Cat Travels

Day 4 Tokyo Shinjuku

If you are unfamiliar, Yayoi Kusama is a contemporary Japanese artist born in 1929, making her an impressive (and still active) 94 years old as of today. Kusama is best known for her dotted pumpkin sculptures and infinity rooms but explores sculpture, textiles, interactive installations as well as painting and other media in her work.

Kusama began creating art as a way to manage her struggles with mental illness beginning when she was a mere 10 years old. Polka dots and repetitive patterns were a way to self soothe and found their way into many of her works. Because of her disease, she has lived off and on in psychiatric institutions most of her life.

Kusama was in New York in the 1960s during the height of the psychedelic and experimental drug scene. This influence is visible in her work and philosophy even today. However, to me, it seems that Kusama was psychedelic long before the 60s, so it’s hard to tell who influenced whom.

I’ve commented before that the popular Teamlab exhibitions appear to be heavily influenced by Kusama’s work, especially her mirrored infinity rooms.

“Each and Every Wish For Peace Just Shines”

Currently Kusama is featured in major exhibits around the world including New York, Washington DC and London. I was first introduced to Kusama when she was featured in the Dallas Museum of Art in 2018. I didn’t make it to that exhibition and have regretted it ever since.

I originally hoped that Kusama’s iconic yellow “pumpkin on the pier” (not the official name) in Japan would be somewhere convenient to the rest of our itinerary. When I found out that wasn’t the case, I began searching for other options, thinking there must always be some big exhibit in her home country, right?

Not really.

I narrowly missed Kusama’s collaboration with the Tokyo Louis Vuitton store – which is for the best since I would have coveted that collaboration tote and would have seriously considered selling one of my kids to get it; the pier pumpkin on Naoshima Island was too far out of the way for a visit – so the Yayoi Kusama Museum in Shinjuku was my only viable option.

Willing to trade – one Sauvignon Blanc-soaked kidney for one LV x YK Neverfull MM bag

Kusama pumpkin on Naoshima Island. This pumpkin was blown into the ocean during a typhoon but has recently been restored.

Fun Fact: While Kusama commonly has elaborate names for her works like “The Universe as Seen from the Stairway to Heaven” and “Chandelier of Grief”, this pumpkin sculpture is just called “Pumpkin”. Perhaps I should suggest “Pumpkin on the Pier” the next time I see her.

Despite quite a few bad reviews on Trip Advisor and other online forums, we loved the museum. It is small, covering five floors of a high-rise building with a relatively tight footprint. It is also isolated, located in a residential area of Shinjuku that you won’t stumble upon on your way to anything else. Most likely any other plans you have in Tokyo on the day of your visit will require a couple of subway lines to get there. But if you are a Kusama fan and have the time in your trip, it is worth a visit.

The current exhibition focuses on Kusama’s themes of Self-Obliteration and the Psychedelic World showcasing sculpture, paintings, photographs and videos. But I don’t think the theme matters.

A little warning if you’re sensitive, there are a couple of videos included in the current exhibition that are NSFW.

Our family particularly enjoyed “Each And Every Wish For Peace Just Shines”, an interactive piece made up of mirrors and lights and “I’m Here, But Nothing”, a mock-up of a small studio apartment filled with glowing polka dots. We appreciated that the museum limited the number of people in the room at any given time and set clear time limits. During our visit, the three of us were in the room with just one other person allowing more complete immersion into the art.

“I’m Here, But Nothing”

Entry to the museum requires a reservation. I made our reservation about two weeks in advance through the museum’s website and reserved the earliest slot at 11:00 am. This was a good choice as the museum was noticeably busier as we were leaving. I overheard one of the staff members telling some walk-up visitors that all reservations were sold out for the day and walk-ups were not being accepted. I did not encounter any issues related to using a US cell phone or credit card when making the reservation which was not the case with many other attractions.

We spent about an hour during our visit, this included reading many of the plaques but not all. A true art aficionado will spend a little longer. However, we probably spent more time in the “gift shop” than most others would.

If I had a complaint, as a gift shop aficionado, I wish it was larger. The shop is currently just an oversized round table in the lobby area with a very limited selection. It was hard to browse even with pretty minimal crowds. I know, priorities. But I really wanted a dotty pumpkin magnet. Or cross-stitch.

The cost for the museum itself was very reasonable at less than $10 USD per adult and around $4 USD for students up to age 18.

My Kusama-inspired Easter egg – not long before I dropped it.

Some other logistical details to note – the museum is closed Monday – Wednesday each week and occasionally has extended closures when changing out the exhibits. If you arrive before your reservation window, you will have to wait outside. There is no indoor lobby, even the gift shop is restricted to guests who have already entered.

For more information about the Yayoi Kusama Museum or to make a reservation, click here.